I wake early, darkness still holding its sway over the land as my body aching legs and feet clamber from the warmth of my sleeping bag. The night had been warm and I woke periodically sweating in the warm night air.
The site was cloaked in a quiet stillness, the other campers were not yet awake but they were missing nature at its finest, behind the camp out to sea, a glorious sunrise was slowly bathing the world in its warming glow, I packed quickly, ate some flapjack which came free with the mountain fuel jellies, a brew and off I set into the dull morning light.
I retraced my steps down the farm track and into the little bay of Pwllgwaelod, beached boats sat awaiting their captains with lobster pots keeping guard, I cross and climb steadily up towards Pwll Gwylog to be treated with a fantastic view back across the camp ground of the sun rising, I always take a short moment at spots like these to take in the views and scenery.
Today’s route was a little unknown, whilst planning I had noted that just off the normal coastal routes, there lay a number of neolithic burial chambers and standing stones that I wanted to take a closure look at and being part of the national park it was still with in the spirit of the run, for now I diligently followed the coastal route as it twisted around the cliff faces treating me to more and more spectacular views and geology, the northern part of the route offers the oldest formations, some 400 million years old, colours of various reds and greys dotted the coastline with the faces of the cliffs rolling and curved into intricate v shapes of folding rocks.
I was soon coming into Fishguard, passing through the impressive and now slightly ruinous Fort, built at the start of 1781, it helped fend off a french invasion no less, I took pictures and video before running the short distance through lower town and onto a look out where I took the opportunity for a short rest and google for breakfast, luckily smartly dressed chaps out on a stroll to spread the word of god were most helpful, we swapped cards and they directed me to bacon sandwich and tea.
Today I felt good, energised and ready for what lay ahead, I had time on my side with no reason to rush my distance today. fuelled I set off passing Goddwick and Fishguard Harbour and climbing up minor roads towards my first burial chamber, I ran a mixed terrain of roads, horse tracks and heathlands as I made my way onto Llanwnda, the bracken was high at this time of year and made any standing stone spotting was difficult, I rounded the hill and came across my first chamber. There was a short climb to its point, the lard cap stone dominated the site which is thought to have been hewn from the rock outcrop itself, I sat and ate and hydrated, sitting at its entrance and looking towards my next destination, it was easy to see why they valued places like these, extensive views between settlements.
I passed the tiny hamlet and onto bridal ways, bracken and brambles provided cover from the slight breeze but in doing so increased the humidity, I made use of the free fast food and devoured blackberries as i went, it became a game of Russian roulette with each mouthful a taste of either sour or extraordinary sweetness, I was however mindful to not take in to many in fear of a future urgent toilet need. Another chambered tomb sat to the side of Garn Gilfach and again I took a moment here to look around and take in the views.
I passed into Abercastle but somehow missed one of the more dramatic burial chambers along the route, before plodding the minor road in the heat towards Trevine. I headed here for no other reason than there was a cafe here and I desired food, I had not really eaten since breakfast in Fishguard and had only snacked on a few sweet items in my bag, Trevine a small village of under 300 people was bustling today with tourist and walkers, I stopped by the little cafe and ordered a families worth of food.
I’m sure people were watching me as I devoured my cake, 2 cans of pop, 2 cups of tea and 2 small tubs of rather delicious strawberry ice-cream. I didn’t care much I was happy and lay in the sun for around 30 minutes letting the food settle and my legs recover, my camp for the night lay just south of Porthgain and so i opted to avoiding the coastal path at this stage, I stopped briefly and spoke to a lovely couple at the bottom of the hill, we chatted for a while, her son ex police and also ex mental health worker. It was lovely to have a chat with others, usually I’m avoided like the plague on these runs, but here in Wales I was a tad more accepted, i was only 3 miles short of my camp and with plenty of time to spare.
Coastal Stays sited itself above Porthgain and looked out onto the ocean beyond, I was met with the most glorious of signs on entering, ‘pizza’ yes this camp site made its own pizza what a joy to behold indeed. I met the owner and was shown to my ‘bunker’ pitch delightfully told by the owner that he had seen people camp out 100 mph winds here, the weather forecast was looking dicey now with a yellow warning in place for much of the UK, I was going to be seeing the night out in thunderstorms and lightening.
The lady owner was even kind enough to make me a cup of tea whilst i put my tent up, dinner came and cheese pizza was devoured with ferocious speed, despite having eaten a large amount of food before hand I still felt I hadn’t eaten. I snuggled into my bed for an early night, wondering what lay ahead with the weather and drifted off easily